Very interesting and historical city to visit; lots of things to do and see; lots of culture; unfortunately, also a lot of beggars!
The city's main attraction is the old medina. The best way to explore it is to get lost and then accidentally come across some known place.
I was there in September and it was comfortable for exploring throughout the day. Mornings and evenings are not as cold/cool as outside the city and mid-day sun does not reach the bottom of deep and narrow alleys. There are many cafes and restaurants to sit in and watch the world go by.
Fes is a very historical city where it has the oldest university and leather tannery in the old medina.
Each corner of medina has its own unique image. Love the viverant city of Fes and would like to be back in the near future.
Fes offers a fascinating glimpse into the culture, history, and every day life of a large, active and well-preserved medina.
The people I met in the "new city" of Fes were very nice, however, my overall impression of Fes was significantly tarnished by the large number of belligerent, vulgar and rude touts and con men in the ancient medina who aggressively "prey" on tourists.
These folk are a disgrace to the majority of Moroccans who are friendly, welcoming and hospitable to outsiders. Whilst I acknowledge that many of these touts and con men lack a skill set that might guarantee "honest" employment - do they really think that shouting abuse to someone would result in the unfortunate recipient changing their mind? It is my contention that unless the authorities address this problem then tourists will elect to avoid Fes and smartly spend their tourist dollars in another city or country.
Be very careful with your belongings and do not trust the locals. There's always a plan to wring money out of you, such as unsolicited guides whom turn up every corner.
If you really need to buy anything especially of high value items ask for a 50-70% discount and be firm. It seems low value items are harder to bargain while having a guide wih you will mean higher prices which are given to the guide as commission. However you don't have much choice since you need a guide in this labyrynthine town. GPS maps are not representative of the actual layout.
The medina of Fes is one of a kind and undoubtedly a piece of living history that deserves to be seen and experienced.
However, it is an intense place to visit and the locals can be very aggressive and persistent. Employing the services of an official guide can be useful but is not completely necessary as the main areas of the medina are not that difficult to navigate with the use of a map and by following the signs posted throughout the streets of the medina. The shopping options are endless and the ancient architecture throughout the medina is breathtaking.