Find hotels in Kalayaniwattana

Our short stay at the Lodge during the low season was one of the highlights of our road trip around northern Thailand. Though well-signposted, the last 9km is on unmade roads and you definitely need a 4x4, particularly in the rainy season. The drive there was very much part of the experience and, when we arrived, we were in the middle of nowhere! A little traditional village, with houses on stilts, dogs and chickens and pigs, an old man sitting on his porch smiling at us, as we lurched down the track. It was disconcerting to find that the lodge was deserted when we arrived but as soon as we began to wander upstairs to the terrace, a friendly Karen woman arrived. Because of the language barrier, we wondered if they were expecting us, if they knew we'd already paid, if there would be any food to eat that evening - but all our fears turned out to be unfounded. She gave us the keys to two rooms and made up the extra bed we'd asked for, then left! We relaxed on the veranda, watching the sun set over the mountains and the paddy fields. An hour or so later, three more villagers arrived, one of them with 2 delightful children and a baby strapped to her back. She gave us a menu and proceeded to cook one of the nicest meals we'd had in our travels. Some of the choices were limited - we were off the beaten track in the low season, so that seemed fair enough. They cleared away the meal and left us to our solitude. Coffee and tea making facilities were on the verandah, along with wicker chairs and Thai mats. The lights were left on all night for us. Facilities are basic, but the rooms were clean, with mosquito nets provided. The Western-style toilets and showers were downstairs. Perhaps it is better to book one of their adventure packages to get the most out of this experience, but the chance to sleep in a remote village tucked under the mountains, listening to the frogs and cicadas, and waking with the rooster's call, was what we will remember most about this trip.