A Journey Through Hyogo: Unraveling the Spirit of Japan

Hyogo Prefecture is home to one of Japan’s oldest pilgrimage routes, the Saikoku Kannon Pilgrimage. The core values that form the foundation of the Japanese spirit—respect for manners and a deep appreciation for things—have been nurtured through the nature and people encountered along this pilgrimage. Over the centuries, these values have evolved into different forms and traditions, which continue to thrive throughout Hyogo. Embark on a journey to explore and unlock the essence of Japan’s spirit.

BOOK TOURS & ACTIVITIES IN HIMEJI

Discover the Source of Japan’s Spirit at the Sacred Site of Shoshazan Engyoji Temple

Shoshazan Engyoji Temple Mani-den Hall

“Those who visit the 33 sacred sites dedicated to Kannon Bodhisattva will be led to paradise.” This is the guiding belief behind the Saikoku Kannon Pilgrimage, which began nearly 1,300 years ago. Long before the widespread adoption of Buddhism, it is said that pilgrimage routes such as this helped Japanese people to cultivate diligence, mindfulness, and compassion.

Shoshazan Engyoji Temple in Himeji City, Hyogo Prefecture, was founded in 966 by the monk Shoku Shonin and serves as the 27th sacred site on the Saikoku Kannon Pilgrimage. Over the years, the temple has received patronage from the imperial family, nobility, and contributions from samurai and common folk alike. Today, its vast grounds span over 31 hectares and are dotted with 30 different halls and towers.

Among these is the Mitsunodo , a trio of historically significant buildings designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan, that form a U-shaped courtyard. These include the Daikodo Hall, used for Buddhist lectures, the Jikido Hall, which was once the sleeping quarters for training monks, and the Jogyodo Hall, where monks practiced continuous meditation. The solemn atmosphere created by the blend of natural surroundings and historic architecture has also served as a film backdrop, notably for the Hollywood movie The Last Samurai.

Shoshazan Engyoji Temple Jogyodo Hall

Visitors to Engyoji Temple can partake in various spiritual experiences, including one-day meditation retreats, zazen (seated meditation), sutra copying, and hanabira (flower petal) sutra copying. You can also enjoy traditional Michelin-starred shojin ryori, or traditional Buddhist cuisine, a vegetarian meal prepared by monks (available from April to November, with advance reservations for groups of five or more). After your visit, consider taking a moment to warm your body and soul at nearby Shiota Onsen, a historic hot spring that once served as a resting place for pilgrims on the Saikoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

Breathing Life into Blades at Kikyo Hayamitsu Japanese Sword Smithy

In Japan, there is a belief that all things possess a spirit. This belief comes alive at the Kikyo Hayamitsu Japanese Sword Smithy, nestled in Rakan no Sato in Aioi City’s Yanocho—just under an hour by car from Himeji. Here, master swordsmith Hayamitsu Kikyo crafts Japanese swords and knives in his forge.

Kikyo working with tools passed down from the early 1900s.

Unbreakable, unbending, sharp, and easy to handle. The Japanese sword, once wielded as a weapon, is now primarily crafted as a work of art, but its structure and method of creation have remained unchanged for over 1,000 years. At the Kikyo Hayamitsu Japanese Sword Smithy, you can experience this time-honored craft by forging your very own kogatana (small knife).

The process begins with hizukuri, the forging process, where heated steel is shaped by hammering it into form. After refining the shape with a file, the next step is yaki-ire, or the hardening of the blade. The steel is heated to 800 degrees Celsius, then rapidly cooled in water. Finally, the blade is polished to produce the completed small knife.

The critical moment of a blade’s coming to life is the yaki-ire process, where it hardens and takes on its characteristic curve. Before undertaking the process, Kikyo prays at the household shrine for the success of the blade, speaking to the sword as he sends it into the fire and water with the words “Return safely.” During your visit, you, too, can join in this ritual. The result is a singular knife imbued with life—an unforgettable souvenir from your journey.

Transport Yourself to the Samurai Era in Tamba Sasayama

Tamba Sasayama, a region known for its rice production, flourished as a castle town from the 1600s. In 1609, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the reigning shogun, commissioned the construction of Sasayama Castle, seeing it as a strategic defense point to monitor enemy forces stationed at Osaka Castle.

Sasayama Castle Oshoin

The heart of the castle was the Oshoin grand hall, which unfortunately burned down in 1944 but was reconstructed in 2000. Today, it stands as a symbol of Sasayama, drawing admiration from both castle enthusiasts in Japan and international tourists. Inside, visitors can enjoy numerous history-rich exhibits, including stunning byobu-e paintings adapted from folding screens created by renowned early 17th century artists.

One of the highlights is a display of 15 samurai armor sets, beautifully replicated by local armorer Teruo Tokimoto, which were donated to the Oshoin. The vibrant and intricate designs of the armor speak to the craftsmanship of the Edo period, and visitors can even try on the armor for a full immersive experience.

After soaking in the atmosphere of Edo culture at the Oshoin, take a stroll down Okachimachi Samurai Residence District, where the remnants of historic thatched-roof samurai residences line the street, evoking the charm of a bygone era.

Another must-see is the Kawaramachi Tsumairi Merchant Housing District, which once bustled as the liveliest town in Tamba. Here, you can enjoy a leisurely walk among old merchant houses, some of which have been transformed into quaint cafés, offering a one-of-a-kind taste of a different time.

Discover the Legacy of a Hero Revered among Samurai at the Ako Castle Ruins

Utagawa Hiroshige II, “Chusingura: The Night Attack.” (Collection of Ako Gishikai)

In 1702, the famous Ako Incident occurred, later becoming the basis for the well-known drama and movie 47 Ronin. The incident saw 47 ronin (wandering samurai), led by Oishi Kuranosuke (Yoshio), avenging the unjust death of their master, Asano Naganori, by attacking Kira Kozukenosuke, a high-ranking government official. The Ako Castle Ruins, located in Ako City, Hyogo Prefecture, are the birthplace of these 47 ronin and a significant historical site. Just a 10-minute drive from Ako Onsen, it makes an ideal destination for a peaceful walk before or after enjoying the hot springs.

Ako Castle Sannomaru Otemon (main gate). (Courtesy of the Ako City Board of Education).

Ako Castle, built over 13 years starting in 1648 by the first lord of the Ako Domain, is a rare coastal fortress with an irregular outline. Today, all three primary sections of the castle—Honmaru, Ninomaru, and Sannomaru—remain, offering a glimpse into the Edo period. The main gate and watchtowers were restored in 1950, adding to the castle’s historical allure.

The Art of Naginata: Rei (Respect) Born of Single-Minded Training

For those interested in traditional martial arts, why not try your hand at naginata? Originating in medieval Japan (794–1185), this long polearm was used for both combat and self-defense. It is said that even the ronin of the Ako Incident were skilled in this martial art. After World War II, naginata became widely practiced as a martial art primarily for women. The weapon itself measures between 210 and 225 cm, and its long handle allows for powerful downward strikes, even for those without great physical strength.

Located in Itami City, Hyogo Prefecture, the Shubukan was founded in 1786 as a training ground or dojo for local law enforcement officers. Since then, Itami has become recognized as a hub for the practice and culture of naginata.

Today, naginata is practiced as both a sport and an art. Competitions include two main formats: shiai, or matches, in which participants wear protective gear and compete by striking designated areas on their opponent; and engi, or performances, where practitioners perform prescribed forms without armor to showcase their technique.

“Naginata training requires you to synchronize your breath and spirit with your opponent. Upon doing so, you naturally become attuned to your partner’s age, stamina, and movements, fostering a sense of mutual respect, or rei (respect),” says Yasuko Kimura, the 17th-generation headmaster (soke) of the traditional Tendo-ryu school of naginata. “The symmetrical movements it involves also improve physical balance, and walking barefoot on the wooden floor is quite the refreshing feeling.” Through naginata, you can experience a unique harmony of mind and body as you engage with your opponent from the tip of a long pole. After your training session, why not extend your journey with a visit to Takarazuka Onsen or Takedao Onsen for a day of true rejuvenation?